My favorite restaurants in Tokyo
There’s a reason why Tokyo is considered Mecca for foodies. It leads the world in most Michelin stars per city. This doesn’t even count the anti-establishment restaurants that choose to pass on Michelin because they prefer not to receive the foreign attention. The list of restaurants I want to visit remain ever-growing and there are many coveted places I have yet to succeed in getting a reservation. However, the following restaurants spanning multiple categories are my absolute favorites so far.
Sushi Arai
Price: $$$$
Every sushi restaurant is different and the great ones have at least a few items that are just unforgettable. At Arai, it’s the tuna that hits that mark. The toro just melts in your mouth and when available, they serve a seared tuna cheek that is just heavenly.
The restaurant offers online reservations which are somewhat easy to get as long as you reserve 2-3 months ahead. However, you can only get lunch time slots at the side counter where you are served by the sous chef. The sous chef is very friendly and is fairly proficient in English.
From the pictures taken by regulars on Instagram, the menu that Arai himself serves does seem to be different than what is served at the side counter. I’m not sure if it’s because the dinner menu is different or if regulars get better treatment. It is very difficult to get a reservation at the main counter served by Arai. Regardless, I love the sushi at Arai and will keep coming back.
Map
Sumibi Yakiniku Nakahara
Price: $$$$
Nakahara is my favorite yakiniku restaurant. You order a set course and they bring you different sections of the highest quality Japanese wagyu. They are well known for their “Legendary Wagyu Tongue” which used to require preorders months in advance. I believe it is now included in all of their courses, but I would add a request to the reservation just to be sure. It’s not something you want to miss. The tongue is thick, juicy, and bursting with flavor.
Undoubtably, the highlight of the meal for me is the sirloin. It is cut thin and only takes a few seconds to cook. When eaten, it just melts in your mouth with a couple of bites. This sirloin is one of my favorite things to eat in all of Japan.
The restaurant is very English-friendly and service is great. All the meats are cooked to perfection by the staff. Reservations are not too difficult and can be made online. I recommend trying to reserve other difficult-to-book restaurants first and leaving one dinner open for Nakahara. It will be well worth the visit.
Yakitori Omino
Price: $$$
Omino is my favorite yakitori restaurant so far. The chef trained for six years under the legendary Ikegawa Yoshiteru at Torishiki, regarded by many as the best yakitori restaurant in Japan. After many years, I have yet been able to get a reservation at Torishiki so Omino is the next closest thing.
The food is excellent and my personal favorites are the grilled tofu, meatballs, wings, and skin. The chef chooses what to serve you so there is no need to order individually, although you may do so if there is something in particular you want to try. Do let him know if you don’t eat offals as there are quite a few such as liver, heart, gizzards, and even ovaries! The meal ends when you let the chef know you are full. He then lets you choose if you want to end with an oyakodon or braised ground chicken over rice. Can’t go wrong with either choice.
Reservations are difficult but can be made online. Try making them a couple of months in advance and you should have a decent chance at securing a seat.
Tempura Motoyoshi
Price: $$$$
Motoyoshi is my favorite tempura restaurant. The batter is mixed right before frying and the viscosity is adjusted accordingly to each ingredient being cooked. Placed in front of the guests is a beautiful box containing all of the vegetables used in the meal, showcased like prized treasure. Motoyoshi lightly dips everything in batter and fries them to a perfect golden crisp.
Every dish stood out in taste. Asparagus and mushrooms were sweet and juicy. The chestnut had a buttery texture like mashed potatoes. And the anago, my favorite dish, was crispy, juicy, and tender all in the same bite.
Reservations are difficult and must be booked months ahead. They can be made online through Tableall. Even if a date doesn’t list availability, request it anyways to try your luck.
Hommage
Price: $$$$
What I love about Hommage is how intimate the restaurant feels. The seating area is located on the second floor and the space isn’t very large, but doesn’t feel crowded. The restaurant is run by chef Noboru Arai who is incredibly friendly and hospitable. The entire dining experience feels very personable, and you can sense the care Arai-san puts into every dish.
I loved every course from appetizer to dessert. Each dish had unique flavors and textures, creating a wonderful culinary journey throughout the meal. Ingredients were innovative such as the wasabi yogurt that wrapped thinly around the trout in one of the entrées. Hommage was my first French-Japanese restaurant I tried in Japan, and I credit it to making me fall in love with the category.
Reservations can be made online and are not difficult to book. Prices vary depending on how many courses you choose. I felt very full after the 5-course menu for dinner. Lunch options are also available at lower price points. Overall, the restaurant delivers great value given the quality of food and I look forward to returning in the future.
Seirinkan
Price: $
When you first arrive at Seirinkan, there is no indication that you’re at the right place other than a movie clapper that says “SEIRINKAN HOLLYWOOD OPEN!” The building is narrow with rusted metal on the facade, giving it a steampunk feel as if it were in a Miyazaki film. When you walk in, you see Susumu Kakinuma, the owner of Seirinkan, hard at work alone behind the counter. As there is no seating on the first floor, you walk up a narrow spiral staircase to reach the second and third floor. Music by The Beatles plays on loop and pictures of John, Paul, George, and Ringo hang on the walls.
When you sit down, you are handed a menu with only two types of pizza — marinara and margherita — and a selection of appetizers and pastas. Despite only have two pizzas, neither without meat, Kakinuma is regarded as one of the top Neapolitan-style pizza chefs in Tokyo. The dough is crispy on the outside yet chewy on the inside. Salt crystals are sprinkled onto the pizza, giving it a very satisfying taste and setting it apart from typical pizza dough. Both types of pizza are worth trying, distinctive in their own right.
You can walk-in and get seats at this restaurant. The wait is minimal if you go when they open. It’s a great option for lunch and remains one of my favorite pizza joints in the world.
Rokurinsha
Price: $
The different types of ramen all originate from various cities in Japan. Tokyo is famous for tsukemen ramen — a dipping ramen where the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls. The noodles are room-temperature and the broth is extra thick to cling to the noodles when dipped.
Rokurinsha is one of the most famous tsukemen ramen shops in Tokyo. They have a few locations but my favorite one is located in Tokyo Station because they offer more options such as a seafood-based spice to add to the broth. I absolutely love everything about the ramen. Noodles are thick and chewy. Egg is half-cooked and runny on the inside. Broth is rich and exploding with flavor. Chashu melts upon entering your mouth.
The line for the restaurant does get long so it’s best to avoid peak hours. Wait times are around 20 minutes if you go early but can grow upwards to an hour or more at their busiest.
Tsuru Ton Tan
Price: $
Tsuru Ton Tan is my favorite place to get udon in Tokyo. They have a few locations and from my experience, the quality is consistent across all of them. The bowls are as large as your head and you can order as much udon as you want with no additional charge. I typically stick with the regular portion as it is plenty. My favorite flavor is the sukiyaki udon, though some may find the broth too sweet. The tempura udon is also a good choice. If you’re feeling for something a bit heavier, the curry udon is also very delicious.
Generally, all locations are pretty busy throughout the day. Waits are shortest right when they open or during off-peak hours. They open until 4am, making it a very popular place to eat after drinking.